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About Graham

Tuesday, 8th April 2014

Graham

Hello, my name’s Graham, I’m one of your Technical Advisors and a founding partner of The Welders Warehouse

My job is to help you select the correct products for whatever it is you want to do and to help you get the best out of your purchase.  So please, get in touch, tell me what you’re working on and what you need and lets make your job more of a pleasure than a chore!

I started my working life back in 1977 as an Apprentice Sheet Metal Worker and welder in Chessington, Surrey before moving to Milton Keynes in the mid 80’s to buy a house I could afford with my lovely new Wife.

In the late 80’s I jumped from manufacturing engineering to a sales career, selling first Carbide Burrs, then specialised welding equipment and consumables, before helping found The Welders Warehouse in 1993.

In 1999 The Welders Warehouse entered the then exciting new World of Cyberspace with our first e-commerce website.

The rest, as they say, is history!

When I’m not working I enjoy Photography, Walking, Travel and a bit of Golf (which I’m not very good at 🙂

Best Regards

Graham

Air Fed Welding Masks

Friday, 1st March 2019

February 2019 saw a “Safety Alert” from the Health & Safety Executive.

The notice reports on new Scientific Evidence that links Welding Fume exposure to Lung Cancer.

Click the “H&S Safety Alert” Text Link below to view, or Downloaded via the “Download” Button:

Welding Fume Protection

There is no single solution to Welding Fume Protection as it depends heavily on the environment where welding is carried out.

I’ve lost count of number of times a customer has told me that they keep the door open, or they only weld outside as justification for not having proper welding fume protection.

Dealing with Welding Fumes

In simple terms, you have to prevent Welders (and anybody else in the workshop), from breathing in Welding Fumes.

There are two basic ways of doing this: remove the fume at source to prevent it from reaching the welders Breathing Zone. Or protect the Welders Breathing Zone with a Respirator.

Removing the fume at source means using Fume Extraction Equipment. Protecting the Welders Breathing Zone means using an Air Fed Welding Mask.

Fume Extraction

Fume Extractors come in a number of guises. The three most common are:

  • Units with arms that are placed close to the welding
  • Benches that suck fumes down into the bench.
  • Special Mig Torches that have built in extraction.
Welding Fume Extraction

Fume Extractors use air suction to draw the fume away before it can rise into the Welders Breathing Zone.

Fume Extraction systems typically have a filter that filters out the harmful Particulate Fume and returns the cleaned air to the workshop. Some systems extract to the outside environment, but exhaust points are strictly controlled. After all, no one wants workshops protecting their welders by extracting the fume, only to pump it out onto the street where the public are walking by!!

The advantages of Fume Extraction at source include:

  • Removal of Fume from the workshop, so other staff are also protected
  • Low Maintenance – Filters need only occasional replacement

The alternative to Fume Extraction at source is to protect the welders Breathing Zone from the rising fume. An Air Fed Welding Mask, or PAPR system (Powered Air Purifying Respirator) is an excellent way to do this.

Air Fed Welding Mask

Air Fed Welding Mask

An Air Fed Welding Mask is battery Powered and worn on a belt around the welders waist. Air is sucked into the back of the Respirator Unit, through a Filter, then passed up to the Welding Helmet via a hose. This Air is then poured down across the Welders face. By creating this curtain of filtered air, which is further helped by a Face Seal, Fumes rising up from the weld do not enter the Welders Breathing Zone, inside the Welding Helmet.

Air Fed Welding Helmet

Air Fed Welding Helmet advantages include:

  • Unit goes wherever the welder goes – He/She is wearing it!!
  • In hot conditions, the air flow across the welders face has a cooling effect.
  • An Air Fed Welding Mask is significantly cheaper than a Fume Extraction System.

Conclusion

The latest Health & Safety Executive “Safety Alert” is clear, action MUST be taken to protect Welders Lungs as well as anyone else who might be exposed to the welding fumes. Failure to do so is going to end up with much bigger problems, probably legal ones!

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

No Rent Gas Cylinders

Wednesday, 27th February 2019

No Rent Gas Cylinders have become very popular in recent Years. For those who cannot justify the cost of Renting a cylinder, but find disposable cylinders expensive, no rent gas cylinders are perfect.

Rented Gas Cylinders

Renting the Gas Cylinder has always been the traditional way of accessing Industrial type Refillable cylinders.

Gas fills are carried out by swapping the empty cylinder for a full one.

You carry on renting the cylinder until you no longer require the Cylinder.

The advantage of Cylinder Renting is larger users of gas needing multiple cylinders, can get big discounts. Therefore, the overall cost of cylinder rental and gas fills for high volume users is competitive.

The downside is that if you only need one or two cylinders and you only need them to be filled occasionally, the costs are high. If you don’t use the cylinder at all for a Month or Two, it’s sitting there costing you money!!

Disposable Gas Cylinders

Disposable Gas Cylinders have always been the product of choice for DIY welders as the cost of renting an Industrial type Refillable Cylinder is simply too high.

The advantage of Disposable Gas Cylinders is you only pay for the gas you use as the cylinder is owned by you. Also, Disposable Gas Cylinders are small, light and easy to move around. In fact they will fit straight onto the back of a lot of DIY Mig Welding Machines.

The downside is that they can work out quite expensive if you more than the occasional bit of welding.

No Rent Gas Cylinders

No Rent Gas Cylinders combine the best of both Disposable and Industrial Rented Gas Cylinders.

Essentially, you pay a deposit on the Cylinder (typically around £60, depending on the cylinder size), then you pay for the gas fill (typically around £40, depending on the gas).

In my opinion, a 9 litre cylinder is a great choice for DIY welders. 9 litre cylinders contain around 1230 litres of gas (around 11 times a 110bar disposable). Size wise, they are similar to a SCUBA divers cylinder, so easy to store and move around.

A 20 litre cylinder is also readily available. These typically have around 4000 litres of gas, so are more economical, but are bigger and heavier, so perhaps less convenient.

The BIG advantage of No Rent Gas Cylinders for the DIY and low volume Welder is no ongoing rent on the cylinder. So if you don’t use gas for a Month or two, the cylinder is not costing you any money. Also the gas works out MUCH cheaper than Disposable Gas Cylinders.

There are not really any significant downsides to No Rent Gas Cylinders. You will need an Industrial type Gas Regulator, which is an additional cost if you don’t have one.

Industrial Gas Regulator

Also, the upfront cost of No Rent Gas Cylinders is higher than disposables, because of the deposit. But the ongoing savings are so great that it’s hard not being able to justify these upfront costs.

A Word of Warning

There are several companies offering No Rent Gas Cylinders, these include:

Adams Gas, Gas UK, SGS Gases and Hobbyweld.

READ THE TERMS & CONDITIONS!!!!!

At time of writing, only Adams Gas appear to offer a FULL Return of Deposit when you’ve finished with the cylinder and take it back. The other companies appear to keep some, or all of your deposit if you don’t buy a refill within a defined period of time. So once again.

READ THE TERMS & CONDITIONS!!!!!

Conclusion

Gas Cylinder Renting/No Rent/Disposable is a bit of a personal thing because which method is best for you will depend on how often you use Gas, how much gas you use and how portable you need a gas cylinder to be.

The most important thing is to do your research and read T&C’s

The Welders Warehouse offers disposable gas cylinders but we do not offer No Rent Gas Cylinders as we cannot ship them by courier.

I hope you found this blog article useful, if things work out well for you, please feel free to post some pictures of your achievements on our Facebook Page

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

Model O Torch

Tuesday, 23rd October 2018

Model O – a little bit of History

We’ve been selling the original Model O Torch for some Years now.  It’s always been a popular torch, especially among Roofers, who use it for Lead Welding and LOVE the feel of the torch and the precise flame adjustment that can be achieved.

Now, after over 30 Years of the above model O, we’ve updated the design to incorporate some tweaks that customers have expressed a desire for.

Model O – the Next Generation

Model O Torch

The first thing to say is we haven’t changed very much!  After all, if a Torch is as popular as the Model O it would be stupid to re-invent the proverbial wheel 🙂

So what have we changed?

We’ve now made the Oxygen Inlet from a single forged piece of Brass, rather than two pieces brazed together.  This increases the strength and durability of the whole Torch, plus improves Oxygen Gas Flow.

We’ve tweaked the geometry of the valves to provide even better and more precise flame adjustment.

We’ve increased the angle of the Neck Bend as LOADS of customers, old and new, told us the angle on the old torch wasn’t tight enough.

Model O Nozzles

The Model O Nozzles are VERY small.  They’re numbered 1-5 with 5 being the biggest.  Having said “Biggest” it’s worth noting that the number 5 is only slightly bigger than a conventional torch No1.  So the term “Biggest” is somewhat subjective!

The most popular nozzle is the No3, which Roofers use for Code 4 Lead Welding.  Although all the nozzles sizes  are popular.

No1 nozzle produces such a tiny flame I’m pretty sure you could weld a KitKat wrapper with it 🙂

Using the Model O

The single biggest problem that customers report with using their Model O Lead Welding Torch is difficulties with flame adjustment.  This usually means the flame blows out too easily when lighting, or the flame pattern changing on its own.

In 95% of cases, this is caused by too much gas pressure being set on the Regulator.  When customers report problems and we ask what pressure they have set, we invariably get figures around 1.0 to 1.5 bar.  The correct pressure is between 0.15 and 0.2 bar!!!!  This is barely off the Zero Pin of a Regulator!

Gas Regulator Selection

The problem of setting too higher Gas Pressure derives from one of two things

The operator thinks that 1.0 – 1.5 bar is the correct pressure IT IS NOT!

The operator has a 0-10bar Oxygen Regulator.  Trying to set a STABLE pressure of between 0.15 and 0.2bar on a Regulator with up to 10bar of pressure is virtually impossible!!!

Here at The Welders Warehouse, we offer a 0-4bar Oxygen Regulator for lower pressure applications, which is actually MOST applications!  A 0-4bar Oxygen Regulator is far better for setting and maintaining the stable low pressure needed for using a Model O Lead Welding Torch.  A 0-4bar Oxygen Regulator is suitable for most Welding and Light Cutting Torches.  A higher output Oxygen Regulator would only be necessary for Cutting Nozzles above 5/64″.

Lighting a Model ‘O’ Torch

There is no real difference between lighting  Model ‘O’ Torch to lighting any other kind of Oxy Acetylene Torch.  It’s just more important to make sure the gas pressure on the Regulators is set correctly and only turning the Torch Valves by very small amounts at a time.  The key thing to remember is that with such small nozzles, small changes can make a big difference, so changes have to be made gradually.

Conclusion

The Model O Torch is still the first choice for Lead Welders and the new Torch fine tunes all the things Lead Welders loved about the original.  As long as the Oxy Acetylene Kit is set up correctly, the new Model O will provide Years of trouble free Lead Welding.

To visit our Model O page, where you will find prices and can order, Click Here.

I hope you found this blog article useful, if things work out well for you, please feel free to post some pictures of your achievements on our Facebook Page

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

What does Duty Cycle mean in Welding

Thursday, 17th May 2018

This is a common question.  Essentially, Duty Cycle is a measure of how long a welder will operate for before it overheats and cuts out.

If you’re more of a Watcher than a Reader, you may prefer a Video Explanation

There are 3 key bits of data to Duty Cycle figures:

Amps, a Percentage Figure (%) and the Ambient Temperature the machine was tested in.

Unfortunately, whilst most manufacturers will state the first two figures, they often don’t state what the ambient temperature was when the test was carried out and this is actually a key piece of information! (more on this later).

An example of Duty Cycle data might be:

200amps @ 30% @ 40⁰C

This breaks down as follows:

200amps is what the machine was delivering during the test

30% is the percentage of the work period that the machine continuously delivered 200amps before overheating and cutting out. (in the UK a work period is defined as 10 minutes)

40⁰C (104⁰F) is the ambient temperature of the room when the test was carried out.  So the machines fan is cooling the machine with air that is at 40⁰C

What do these Duty Cycle numbers mean?

In our example, the machine delivered 200amps, for 3 minutes (30% of 10 minute work period), in a temperature of 40⁰C, before overheating and cutting out.

Clearly these figures are pretty specific and hardly anyone is ever going to match all the numbers.  For example, when is it ever 40⁰C here in the UK????  Clearly if the machine is being used in colder temps, the runtime (%) will increase.  Which is why it annoys me that a lot of manufacturers don’t state the ambient temperature the test was conducted in.

Here in Europe, 40⁰C (104⁰F) is the norm, BUT this is not mandatory and some manufacturers will carry out tests in 25⁰C (77⁰F) or even 20⁰C (68⁰F), which, in my view, is a bit naughty because a lower temp will make the % figure look a LOT better than a machine that’s tested in 40⁰C (104⁰F).  So beware!!!!!

Conclusion

The point of these numbers is to compare machines.  It’s a bit like comparing car fuel consumption, no one ever gets the Miles per Gallon the manufacturers claim the car will do, but you can use the numbers to compare makes/models.

I hope you found this blog article useful, if things work out well for you, please feel free to post some pictures of your achievements on our Facebook Page

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

Oxy Acetylene Flame

Tuesday, 24th April 2018

An Oxy Acetylene Flame will fall loosely into one of three types:

Neutral, Oxidising and Carburising

Neutral Oxy Acetylene Flame

Neutral Oxy Acetylene Flame

A Neutral flame is achieved when there are equal amounts of Oxygen and Acetylene.

A Neutral Flame is so named because it has no chemical effect on the molten metal.

Key characteristics of a Neutral Flame are a defined Cone Flame at the base of a long feather flame.  If the correct size of nozzle is being used a Neutral flame should produce no more than a gentle hiss.

A Neutral Oxy Acetylene Flame is used for Welding, Brazing and Silver Soldering most metals and is therefore the most common type of flame to use.  A Neutral Flame is also used for Oxy Acetylene Cutting.

Oxidising Oxy Acetylene Flame

 Oxidising Oxy Acetylene Flame

An Oxidising Flame is where there is more Oxygen than Acetylene used.

Key characteristics of an Oxidising Flame are a small, sharp, more pointed looking Cone Flame at the base of a shorter feather flame.  An Oxidising Flame will have a distinct roar.

Use of a slightly Oxidising flame is more specialised, typical uses are for welding copper and zinc based metals or manganese steels.  In these cases an oxidising flame creates base metal oxide that protects the base metal.

Carburising Oxy Acetylene Flame

 Carburising Oxy Acetylene Flame

A Carburising Flame is where there is more Acetylene than Oxygen used.

Key characteristics of a Carburising Flame is a secondary feather flame, caused by the excess Acetylene burning further down the flame length. If the correct size of nozzle is being used a  Carburising flame should produce no more than a gentle hiss.

Use of a Carburising Flame is more specialised, typical uses are for welding lead, surface hardening processes or welding high carbon steels.

I hope you found this blog article useful, if things work out well for you, please feel free to post some pictures of your achievements on our Facebook Page

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

Silver Solder & Braze

Wednesday, 18th April 2018

Silver Solder & Braze are both products used with either an Oxy Acetylene Torch or Oxy Propane Torch.

Silver Solder & Braze, what’s the difference?

For me, the key difference is how they work on the joint.

Silver Solder

Silver Solder is more fluid than Braze and works by being drawn into the joint by a capillary action.  So if, for example, you want to join two pieces of thin sheet metal together, you would need to overlap them.  The Silver Solder will be drawn through the joint, filling the minute crack between the two pieces of metal, bonding with the surfaces to join them.  If you tried to butt the two pieces of metal together, there simply wouldn’t be enough surface area touching to achieve a strong joint.

Silver Solder is used with a Flux, which chemically cleans the metal and keeps it clean during the Silver Soldering process.  Silver Solder is also know as Silver Brazing.

Braze

Braze on the other hand, does not get drawn into the joint, but is built up on the surface of the metal being joined, so it looks more like a weld.  Like Silver Solder, the Braze material bonds with the surface of the metal being joined.

Braze is used with a Flux, which chemically cleans the metal and keeps it clean during the Brazing process.  Brazing is also known as Bronze Welding.

What Silver Solder & Braze have in common is that neither involve melting the metal that’s being joined, that would be welding!

Silver Solder & Braze JointsIn the joint examples shown, I would use Silver Solder on the Edge & Lap Joint and Braze for the Butt, Corner & Tee Joint.

Types of Silver Solder & Braze

Whilst there are a number of Brazing Alloys on the market, for this article we’ll keep it simple and just cover the most common, C2.

C2 is a multi purpose, Silicon Bronze brazing rod that’s suited to most general purpose brazing on metals including Steel, Copper, Cast Iron and dissimilar metals.

C2 Braze is Brass Coloured and typically melts at around 875⁰C.

Most Silver Solders can be categorised by their Silver content.  The Silver content will determine the fluidity and melting temperature, the more Silver, the more fluid and the lower the melting temperature.

Most common are 33% Silver (around 720⁰C), 40% Silver (around 675⁰C) and 55% Silver (around 650⁰C).

Also available are Silver bearing Copper Phosphorus Alloys (CoPhos).  These are available with either 2% or 5% Silver and are used primarily for joining Copper to Copper, where, if the metal is clean, no Flux need be used.

Silver Solder can be used to join most common metals, including Mild Steel, Stainless Steel, Copper, Brass, Cast Iron and Dissimilar Metals.

Fluxed or Bare Wire?

Silver Solder & Braze is usually available in 2 or 3 forms:

  1. Bare Wire – (Silver Solder & Braze). This is my preferred type.  With this wire you use a powder flux.  This can be coated onto the wire as necessary by gently warming the end of the wire in your flame, then dipping in the powder.  This can be repeated as necessary.
  2. Flux Coated – (Silver Solder & Braze). This may seem like a good idea, but there are, for me, three flaws.  Flux coated wires are more expensive than bare wire.  If you need additional flux, you’ll still need a pot of powder. If the wires are bent, the flux tends to fall off!
  3. Flux Impregnated – (Braze Only). Here the flux is in little nicks on the wire.  This works very well and the wires can be bent.  The downside is that flux impregnated wires are the most expensive.

I hope you found this blog article useful, if things work out well for you, please feel free to post some pictures of your achievements on our Facebook Page

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

Propane

Friday, 6th April 2018

Is Propane any good?

YES! It’s a great gas!

  • It’s versatile
  • Can be used with or without Oxygen (with correct Torch)
  • It’s cheap, compared to Acetylene
  • It’s readily available
  • It’s available without Cylinder Rental

The only real downside to Propane is that you can’t weld with it.

Pretty much everything else can be done.

With the right Torch, Oxy/Propane is great for Heating, Brazing, Silver Soldering etc.

How Propane Works in practice

Propane Gas Cylinder

Propane is a liquified gas and is stored in a cylinder with a void above the liquid.

The Liquid turns into a vapour, which fills the void until a certain pressure is reached, this pressure will depend on ambient temperature.  The colder the cylinder/liquid is, the lower the vapour pressure will be.

It is the vapour that is drawn off and travels through the Regulator, Flash Arrestor, Hose and Torch, until it meets air.  When the vapour meets air it turns into a gas, which then burns.

As vapour is drawn from the cylinder, more liquid turns into vapour, until the cylinder is empty.

Propane Problems

Propane Regulator

I’ve only ever really spoken to customers about 2 possible problems with Propane.

  1. In cold conditions, for example, the cylinder is stored in an unheated area during Winter.  The temperature of the liquid can drop so low that the Torch/Flame draws vapour off faster than the liquid in the cylinder can become more vapour.  This means the flame starts to get smaller and ultimately, goes out, giving the impression that either the cylinder has run out, or the Regulator is faulty, when in fact, neither is the case.  The only real solution to this problem is to ensure the cylinder is at room temperature when in use.
  2. If used with an Oxy/Acetylene Torch, Oxy/Propane tends to spit and fart quite a bit and the flame can easily blow out, especially when lighting.  A Torch designed for Oxy/Propane will perform FAR better and be much easier to use. Apologies for the shameless plug of our Multi-Jet LD and Multi-Jet HD Oxy/Propane Guns, but they are very, very good! Please watch the video demonstration via the “Video” tab on the pages (same video on both pages).

 

Multi-Jet Propane Nozzle

I hope you found this blog article useful, if things work out well for you, please feel free to post some pictures of your achievements on our Facebook Page

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

Welding Cast Iron

Friday, 16th March 2018

Welding Cast Iron has quite a few potential pitfalls, but if done correctly, it’s not difficult.

Why is Welding Cast Iron problematic

The key reason why welding cast iron can be problematic is the high carbon content.  During the welding process, this carbon migrates into the weld metal and/or the heat affected zone adjacent to the weld metal, causing elevated hardness/brittleness.  This is how Cast Iron gets its reputation for post weld cracking.

Process for Welding Cast Iron

Gas Welding heats the Cast Iron slower than Arc based processes and the flame is lower temperature than an arc.  This means Carbon migration is not normally a problem.  Use of a proprietary Cast iron Gas Welding rod is important.  The only real downsides to Gas Welding Cast Iron is the amount of heat needed if components are large.  Gas Welding is also a slow process.

Arc/Stick Welding is, arguably, the best all-round process for Welding Cast Iron, provided the correct welding rods are used.  Cast iron Welding Rods have a special Graphite rich flux, this graphite chemically ties up the Carbon in the Cast Iron, limiting migration into the weld metal and heat affected zone.  There are two common types of Cast iron Welding Rod, Ferro-Nickel and Pure Nickel.  Ferro-Nickel are typically 53% Steel and 47% Nickel.  Ferro-Nickel Rods are cheaper than pure Nickel and are ideal for welding Cast Iron to Steel.  Pure Nickel will produce a softer, more malleable weld deposit.  I would advocate using Ferro-Nickel, unless the job specifically requires Pure Nickel.

Mig Welding is, in my opinion, not a great way to weld Cast Iron.  Whilst there are specialist Flux Cored Wires available, unless you have a repeating application that you can create a procedure for, I would not advocate Mig Welding Cast iron.

Tig Welding is not considered a suitable process for Welding Cast Iron.  An open arc process such as Tig offers no opportunity to mitigate Carbon migration.

Welding Techniques

Gas Welding – There are no specific techniques that need to be deployed.

Arc/Stick Welding – All of the following are important:

  1. Prep the job with a ‘U’ shaped groove, avoid sharp corners as this can lead to heat build up which will exacerbate carbon migration.
    Cast iron Weld Preparation
  2. Use the correct type of welding rod.
  3. Ensure the component is AT LEAST at room temperature, adding a small amount of pre-heat will help, but you only need the component to be warm to the touch.
  4. Limit the amount of welding done in one run.  As a rule of thumb, do not put down a continuous run that has a length greater than 10x the diameter of the welding rod being used.  Having said that, it’s ok to put down multiple runs in different parts of the component (see graphic in next item).  Eg, if repairing a 300mm crack with a 3.2mm rod, you can weld a run of 32mm, then do another 32mm run in another part of the crack.  Avoid letting the weld area get too hot, this is the purpose of short runs.
  5. If you’re repairing  crack, run a bead across each end of the crack to avoid the crack spreading further.
    Cast Iron Crack Repair Procedure
  6. Keep the welding rod vertical, not at an angle, like you would for most stick welding.
  7. Don’t expect to weld cast iron quickly, the key is to take you time and do it properly.

I hope you found this blog article about Welding Cast Iron useful, if things work out well for you, please feel free to post some pictures of your achievements on our Facebook Page

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

 

Fuzz Townshend – Car SOS

Saturday, 10th March 2018

I first met Fuzz Townshend when he was a journalist at Practical Classics magazine and got involved in several projects with him including a Mig Welding project that saw Fuzz choosing one of our Mig Welders.

Fuzz Townshend - Car SOS

Since then, a few years have passed and now Fuzz co-presents Car SOS on Channel 4, where our Mig Welder is often seen, albeit in the background, well the show is about cars ?

A couple of weeks ago Fuzz got back on touch as he was seeking a Tig Welder for use in the next series of Car SOS.  After a chat on the phone we decided the best machine for the job was the Cross-Arc 200 AC/DC

So Yesterday, my lovely Wife and I drove up to the Car SOS workshop in Oldbury, West Midlands, to deliver the machine and run through the basics of getting up and running with this excellent Tig Welder.

Fuzz and the guys intend to use the machine for some of the finer car welding work where the greater control and quality of Tig Welding can be exploited.  Fuzz commented that “as some of the vehicles in the forthcoming shows have Aluminium bodies, the AC function of the Cros-Arc 200 AC/DC Tig Welder will come in very useful”.

Graham & Fuzz with the Cros-Arc Tig Welder

For those who have not seen the show, the show synopsis is as follows:

“Overhaulin’ ” fans can relate to the premise of “Car SOS.” Both document the done-in-secret car restorations for needy or down-on-their-luck owners, with the main difference being the former show is based in the U.S. and the latter in the U.K. “Car SOS” is driven by hosts Tim Shaw and Fuzz Townshend, whose combined talents — Shaw is parts manager, and Townshend is master mechanic — rescue much-loved classics from rusty retirements. With some grease, graft, expertise and care, the SOS team creates jaw-dropping motor makeovers.

I appreciate this article is a little self indulgent, but I hope you still found it interesting.

Please let me know what you thought of this article by leaving a comment.  Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse

Setting up Oxy Acetylene Kit

Friday, 2nd March 2018

Setting up Oxy Acetylene Kit is not rocket science, but it is important to do it correctly.

Setting up Oxy Acetylene Kit – the basics

  1. Oxy Acetylene fittings consist of a concave Female sealing face on one component and a Male ball shaped sealing face on the other.  A Nut clamps these faces together to form a gas tight seal. Oxy Acetylene Fittings
  2. Threads are not designed to be gas tight as gas will not come into contact with the threads.
  3. NEVER use PTFE tape or any other form of thread sealing product when setting up gas equipment.
  4. DO NOT over tighten joints, they only need to be nipped up, take special care if you’re using a large adjustable spanner as it’s easy to over tighten nuts if you’re using a spanner that was designed for use on the Forth Bridge assembly 🙂
  5. Combustible Gas fittings (Propane, Acetylene etc) will be LEFT HAND THREADS, this will be indicated by little nicks in the corners off the nuts.

Oxy Acetylene Hose Fitting

Setting up Oxy Acetylene Kit

Setting Up Oxy Acetylene Kit

  1. Visually check the inside of the thread and seat of the Gas Cylinder outlet, you’re looking for dust, debris or scratches on female sealing face.
  2. Fit the Gas Regulator to the Gas Cylinder
  3. Fit the Flash Arrestor to the Regulator – Note, in North America, Flash Arrestors are fitted to the Torch, but here in Europe we fit them to the Regulator.
  4. Fit The Hose to the Flash Arrestor.  Note, it may be that both ends of your hose are the same size nut, allowing the hose to be fitted the wrong way round.  The Torch end has a Check Valve (one way valve), if the hose is fitted the wrong way around, you will not get any gas out!  Look at both ends of the hose, if the nuts are the same size, look behind the nut, if there is 5-10mm of brass bar between the back of the nut and the start of the hose, that will be the Check Valve and thus the Torch end of the hose.
  5. Fit your Gas Gun to the end of the Hose.

Lighting after setting up Oxy Acetylene Kit

  1. Check the valves on the Torch are closed.
  2. Check the Control Knobs on the Regulators are unscrewed to the point where it is loose and floppy.
  3. SLOWLY open the Gas Cylinder Valves.
  4. Open the Oxygen Valve on the Torch ½ a turn (no gas will come out yet).
  5. Screw the Oxygen Regulator Control Knob in until you feel it start to go stiff, continue turning while watching the Delivery Pressure Gauge on the Regulator, continue turning the Regulator Control Knob until the desired pressure is reached.
  6. Turn OFF the Torch Valve.
  7. Repeat steps 4-6 with the fuel gas.
  8. Check all joints for leaks with a proprietary leak detector product.
  9. Imagining the control knob is the face of a clock, open the fuel gas Torch Valve around 5 minutes.
  10. Light the gas with a Spark Lighter (Cigarette lighters should be avoided as they can be dangerous)
  11. Slowly open the Oxygen Torch Valve until the desired flame is achieved.

You’re now ready to get stuck into the job!  Always remember to use eye protection, even if you choose not to wear darkened goggles, you should at least wear clear goggles, as there is always a risk of sparks.

I hope you found this blog article about setting up Oxy Acetylene Kit useful, if things work out well for you, please feel free to post some pictures of your achievements on our Facebook Page

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Cheers

Graham

The Welders Warehouse